Dog training advice and tips: what I do with my own dogs, and how to raise a pup - it all starts before you bring the pup home then training from day one to make sure your dog grows up happy and healthy.
Showing posts with label Dog Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dog Training. Show all posts
Sunday, 16 February 2014
Teaching your dog to obey any command in any situation
It is necessary to teach your dog each command in more than one environmental situation - so not just at home or in a training class, but in the garden, in the park, in the middle of a children's play area, at a farm or anywhere else that is safe and available to you, and where you are likely to take your dog in the future.
It is important to do this because dogs demonstrate what is known as context specific learning - you may also see it referred to as 'proofing' a command. Therefore, if you only ever practice a sit-stay with your dog in the kitchen of your home for example, he may not perform a sit-stay in another location. When you teach a dog a command, he associates not only the word or signal you are using with the command you are trying to teach, but also other things that are around him - such as smells, perhaps the texture of the surface he is sitting on, or the fact that he is on a leash and in a training class with other dogs. You can use this learning trait to your advantage if you have an anxious dog and you want to encourage calm behaviour in a situation that the dog finds stressful - but I will cover that in another post.
You have to help your dog focus in on the fact that it is the word or signal (or both) that is important not the other environmental factors, so once your dog understands what you require, move to a slightly noisier, more distracting location and teach him the command there too. Once he is reliable there, move again to a yet more demanding location and repeat the process. Don't try to force your dog, you will just make him lose confidence in you and put back his training.
Always set your dog up for success - so if you want to try a sit-stay in the park, don't go when chidren are having an exciting game of chase-the-ball and he wants to join in. Start off on a quiet day when there are no children, then perhaps behind a bush or building so that he can hear but not see the children, then as he improves perhaps sitting with his back to the fun but his focus on you, before he graduates to being able to sit and focus on you and the command and ignores the children playing nearby.
Each dog is different so will need to adjust your training to suit his rate of progress. As with all dog training, you will not achieve this quickly, and depending upon what you are trying to teach your dog, it could take months - so persevere! Your progress will depend upon the strength of the bond between you and your dog, how willing he is to work for you, the dog's breed, its age, how it was raised, its innate ability to learn, your ability to communicate your requirements to your dog and reward appropriate responses, and your ability to make sure you don't inadvertently reward undesired responses.
Tuesday, 25 June 2013
Researchers in Vienna Demonstrate that Owner-Dog Relationships Share Striking Similarities to Parent-Child Relationships
A very interesting study has been published by researchers in Vienna.
A very interesting study has been published by researchers in Vienna.
Lisa
Horn (Ludwig Huber Department of Cognitive Biology, University of Vienna,
Austria & Ludwig Huber, Friederike Range Clever Dog Lab Society, Vienna)
with Ludwig Huber, Friederike Range Messerli Research Institute, University of
Veterinary Medicine, Vienna claim that their scientific study provides an
important piece of evidence for the similarity between the "secure base
effect" found in dog-owner and infant-caregiver relationships.
The
study is the first to show that the secure base effect in dogs extends from the
Ainsworth's Strange Situation Procedure to other areas of dogs' lives and that
it can also manifest in cognitive testing. A comparable effect has been shown
in human children when they were confronted with a problem-solving task: those
children that were able to use their mother as a secure base were found to be
more motivated and persistent in solving the task. However, while the secure
base effect is usually only evident in infanthood, where it balances the
infants' exploration of the world with maintaining the crucial proximity to the
caregiver, dogs seem to be unique in having retained this behavior into
adulthood. Dogs living in animal shelters have even been found to establish
preferences for specific humans after short positive interactions in adulthood,
which already strikingly resemble attachment bonds.
Although
the secure base effect we found in this study was specific for the owner,
unfamiliar humans like the experimenter also seem to be able to provide some
social support for the dogs. A similar effect has been observed in human
children when they seek social support from non-attachment figures with whom
they had been familiarized prior to the test. Although in adult dogs it has so
far mainly been shown that owners are the ones who provide social support for
their dogs, in dog puppies social support can also be provided by an unfamiliar
human.
It is
likely that the presence or absence of the owner might substantially influence
dogs' motivation in other more complex test situations. The owner's absence in
the generally unfamiliar experimental setting might cause a lack of security,
which in turn could influence the outcome of the test.
The
message to take from this research is this: your dog is not a child and should
not be treated as one. However, in the
same way that young children need to be allowed to develop their confidence and
life skills by exploring the world from the safety and comfort of their
mother's arms, so a young puppy needs to be able to develop its confidence and
understanding of its environment from the safety of its owners arms. So don't overwhelm your puppy by constantly
throwing it in to new and stressful situations.
Rather gently expose it to new and unsettling situations, but always
with a safe pair of arms for it to retreat to if everything threatens to
overwhelm it.
Monday, 24 June 2013
Puppy Dog Tales - The SIT, STAY, DOWN
Puppy Training - the SIT, DOWN, STAND
Teaching a very young pup the basic positions can be quite simple as they can be lured in to position more easily than a larger dog. People who plan to exhibit their dogs in Breed Shows don't generally teach their dogs SIT as they need the dogs to stand for long periods in the show ring so they focus on teaching their dogs STAND instead.
Watch Mum!
The first thing to teach your pup is to learn to pay attention to you by looking at your face, so when you feed the pup bring the bowl up towards your face and reward him verbally and with his dinner when he makes eye contact.
The SIT
You will find that if you call your pup's name it is likely that the pup will sit as he lifts his head to look up at your face as it is so much higher than him. If you know he will do this, call his name to get his attention then give him the command SIT. When he sits, praise him and treat him immediately - behaviourists recommend rewarding within 3 secs of the dog complying so time 3 secs on a stopwatch to see how quick you need to be as it is a very short space of time!
The DOWN
When your dog is sitting, use a treat to lure your pup in to a DOWN position. You can do this by showing him the treat by holding it in front of his face, then drop your hand to the floor immediately under his chin, at the same time giving the command DOWN. As you do this he should start to lower his head to get the treat, so start to slide your hand along the floor away from his face - still saying DOWN. His head should follow the treat and if you do it slowly and gently he will drop to the floor rather than walking forward. If he does drop to the floor, reward him immediately with lots of cuddles and praise and the treat. If he stands up, or lifts his back end off the floor, say 'No' and very gently try to manoeuvre him so that his belly is on the floor or he rolls over on to his side - at which point praise and treat as described earlier.
DO NOT under any circumstances push your pup to the floor, pin him down or put pressure on his back or hips as you could easily damage his growing bones.
The secret with this exercise is:
Always finish on a positive note - so ask your pup for a sit as they usually learn that very quickly - then as well as praising him have a little game so that he looks forward to training sessions because he knows it will end with you being delighted with him!
Teaching a very young pup the basic positions can be quite simple as they can be lured in to position more easily than a larger dog. People who plan to exhibit their dogs in Breed Shows don't generally teach their dogs SIT as they need the dogs to stand for long periods in the show ring so they focus on teaching their dogs STAND instead.
Watch Mum!
The first thing to teach your pup is to learn to pay attention to you by looking at your face, so when you feed the pup bring the bowl up towards your face and reward him verbally and with his dinner when he makes eye contact.
The SIT
You will find that if you call your pup's name it is likely that the pup will sit as he lifts his head to look up at your face as it is so much higher than him. If you know he will do this, call his name to get his attention then give him the command SIT. When he sits, praise him and treat him immediately - behaviourists recommend rewarding within 3 secs of the dog complying so time 3 secs on a stopwatch to see how quick you need to be as it is a very short space of time!
The DOWN
When your dog is sitting, use a treat to lure your pup in to a DOWN position. You can do this by showing him the treat by holding it in front of his face, then drop your hand to the floor immediately under his chin, at the same time giving the command DOWN. As you do this he should start to lower his head to get the treat, so start to slide your hand along the floor away from his face - still saying DOWN. His head should follow the treat and if you do it slowly and gently he will drop to the floor rather than walking forward. If he does drop to the floor, reward him immediately with lots of cuddles and praise and the treat. If he stands up, or lifts his back end off the floor, say 'No' and very gently try to manoeuvre him so that his belly is on the floor or he rolls over on to his side - at which point praise and treat as described earlier.
DO NOT under any circumstances push your pup to the floor, pin him down or put pressure on his back or hips as you could easily damage his growing bones.
The secret with this exercise is:
- Firstly to keep your pup calm. If your pup has been over-stimulated by playing or some other physical activity, he will not be able to focus on you and your commands so wait until he is calm and able to pay attention to you.
- Secondly only reward the required behaviour. Don't reward a partial down or a 'cute' action such as giving a paw - you asked for DOWN so all that should be rewarded is a DOWN. Your pup learns by trial and error, so if he doesn't understand or doesn't get it right, say No gently and keep explaining what you want clearly and calmly. If he is still very young you may only be able to try 2 or 3 repetitions before his attention wanders. Be guided by your dog and work at his pace as all dogs are different and you cannot expect too much from a young pup.
- Thirdly make sure you DO reward the desired behaviour. Your pup will probably accidentally put his belly on the floor just before he jumps up again so be prepared and the instant he hits the ground say Yehhh - Good pup - Well Done... etc and treat him. It won't take him long to associate the belly on the ground and the reward.
The STAND
When your dog is sitting, use a treat to lure him in to the STAND position. You do this by showing him the treat by holding it in front of his face, then moving your hand away from his nose, very slowly and parallel with the floor and giving the pup the command - STAND. You will only need to move your hand a few inches so that the pup comes up on to all 4 feet then praise and reward him. Make sure you don't reward the pup for taking an extra step or walking forward - something they are liable to do if you move the treat too far away from their face. Again, wait until the pup is calm and focussed on you before you try this; don't get impatient with the pup, and if he is very young then 1, 2 or 3 attempts may be all he can focus on before his attention wanders.
Always finish on a positive note - so ask your pup for a sit as they usually learn that very quickly - then as well as praising him have a little game so that he looks forward to training sessions because he knows it will end with you being delighted with him!
Saturday, 1 September 2012
Puppy Dog Tales - The First Few Days
He is happy to go to his crate and be confined when necessary as he gets a Kong toy with a few pieces of kibble to keep him distracted as I leave. He spends a happy few minutes rolling the Kong around the crate to get the kibble out then eating it. The crate is covered with old towels so it is dark and draught-free, like a little den, and he can feel secure. He is a clean pup and when confined alone he toilets mainly on the newspaper. He performs on cue outside when given the command to Go Toilet and by watching him carefully inside, I can normally catch him and rush him outside. He has a funny little walk when he needs to poo and he rushes around, nose stuck to the ground, circling, until he finds the perfect spot so that is always a useful sign for me to act quickly. If he remembers when playing, he will rush off to his newspaper to toilet, but he is usually too engrossed in his game to remember.
His training is going well, he knows his name, how to make eye contact, Go Toilet, Come, responds well to Leave and is learning Stand. He is also learning by watching the bigger dogs that calm behaviour is rewarded rather than the hysterical, excited jumping up of puppies. Jumping up to demand food or attention may be endearing in a little pup, but is extremely irritating in a full grown dog so we are not encouraging it and instead reward the instant he sits calmly and looks at my face.
My main problem a the moment is trying to prevent Little Girl from hurting him accidentally. They play a lot - she brings him toys and plays tug-of war, or lets him climb all over her, or they wrestle and play chases. However she is also young (2 years old) so she can get over-excited very easily and starts charging about or play-biting him so he could easily be badly hurt. Also all dogs need to learn self-control.
We have all seen toddlers in supermarkets having a tantrum because they want a sweet or a toy and Mum has refused. A very similar thing happens with dogs and puppies when they become over-excited and they start charging about, crashing into people or furniture, perhaps barking or nipping. As with jumping up, this can be endearing in a little pup if no damage is done, and if children are involved they will probably find it great fun, playing chases with the pup, the children squealing and the puppy barking hysterically. However, allowing this to happen without moderation is laying down trouble for the future as the pup is learning that out-of-control behaviour is acceptable and indeed fun! However, when the dog is larger or fully grown it will still display these behaviours and that is when owners realise that the behaviour is no longer acceptable and that they have a problem dog.
Owners and their children should most certainly play with their pup - it is necessary for the pup's development and strengthens the bond between dog and owner. However, the owner is the leader in the relationship and must moderate the behaviour of the pup and those it is interacting with (be they adults, children, dogs or other pets) to ensure that play remains fun but if the pup does start to lose control and act hysterically that it is encouraged to calm down and play more quietly. By gently restraining it and not allowing it to continue to play and telling it quietly to calm down, then allowing it to continue playing once it is calmer you are teaching it to manage frustration (at being denied play) and learn self-control. It will learn that the appropriate behaviour to allow it to gain access to play is calm and happy and that if it doesn't moderate its own behaviour through self-control then play may be withdrawn. If adults or children react to hysterical, out-of-control behaviour in a pup by squealing, laughing at it, chasing or egging on the behaviour (there are many videos online of owners doing this!) then the pup will see this attention as a reward and be encouraged to repeat the behaviour.
It is easier to lay down boundaries and stop your pup from demonstrating unacceptable behaviours at this age so think carefully - do you really want your pup doing this when s/he is fully grown? If the answer is NO then stop it now!
Monday, 9 July 2012
Is your Pup Really a Wolf in Dog's Clothing?
There are
numerous variations on the theme of dog training, many based on misconceptions
around wolf behaviour. A study in the
1990’s by Dr. David Mech of the University of Minnesota concluded that much of
what was widely believed about wolf packs was mistaken, but it was these
misunderstandings that had underpinned
the dominance hierarchy / alpha leader version of dog training. Dr Mech studied natural wolf packs in the wild for
over 12 years and attributes many of the misconceptions to observations of
unnatural packs of unrelated wolves in captivity. He identified that the natural wolf pack is
typically a family, with a breeding pair of adult wolves and their offspring
and the terms "alpha" or "dominant" are less appropriate than
"parent." A
wolf pack should be seen as a family unit which serves to raise the young, with the adult parents guiding
the activities of the group before the young disperse to pair up
with other dispersed wolves and form a breeding pair and a pack of their own. To ensure their survival, canines have developed body language and behaviours that have a calming effect so the animals can co-operatively hunt for prey, raise their young, and resolve conflicts without violence.
Although dogs are not wolves, they are pack animals and they want someone to
take charge. They want to be led by a
calm, even tempered leader; someone who will deal with whatever situation
arises with confidence, and communicate to them that they are safe and secure –
a parent figure rather than a tyrant figure.
A handler taking on the role as pack leader has to communicate that they
are in control, are the source of the dog’s food, are in control of the space
in which it lives and the resources it wants to access, and help the dog
understand those actions that constitute acceptable behaviour through positive
obedience training and building a close, trusting relationship with their dog.
Dogs learn
very quickly and from an early age – both from each other and from humans. Puppies can learn behaviours quickly by following
examples set by experienced dogs. Studies have also shown that dogs
engaged in play with other dogs change their behaviour depending on the
attention-state of their partner. Play
signals were only sent when the dog was holding the attention of its partner.
If the partner was distracted, the dog instead engaged in attention-getting
behaviour before sending a play signal.
Similarly in a training environment handlers have to secure the
attention of their dog before giving it an instruction.
To train any animal the behaviour of
the animal must be understood. A bond
between trainer and animal must be developed so that the responses of each
become predictable. The animal needs to learn
that the trainer will respond predictably when the dog offers certain
behaviours, i.e. the trainer will offer rewards. Similarly the trainer learns that reinforcing the
desired response makes the response more likely to be repeated in the future. One of the aims of dog training classes is to
train the handlers to be predictable so that the dog realises that responding
in a certain way has a desirable outcome.
Reinforcement is a reward for desired
behaviour and gives the trainer a means of managing the behaviour of the animal
as whenever a particular activity is reinforced, the chances of that activity
being repeated are increased. To be effective, a reinforcement must be given
almost simultaneously with the desired behaviour (and certainly never before). A reinforcement can be a food reward, a
verbal reward (praise), a physical touch (stroke, tickle etc) or even a game
(throwing a ball etc).
Inducement training can also be used
to shape and reinforce a behaviour that at first approximates the desired goal
behaviour. Through further selective
reinforcement and shaping, the dog's behaviour eventually meets the handler's requirements. Psychologists identify this process as a form
of operant conditioning. The inducement can be in the form of a
favourite toy, or a treat. When the dog
responds with the desired behaviour, the behaviour is then reinforced by verbal
praise.
So to summarise:
·
The handler has to understand what a dog is – a
pack animal that wants to live in a co-operative family unit with a firm but
fair pack leader who makes the dog feel safe and secure.
·
Owners should remember that dogs are not wolves,
and breed personalities have been shaped by selective breeding during
domestication.
·
Dogs learn quickly, from both other dogs and
humans, and through selective breeding have acquired the ability to interpret
subtle social cues from their handlers.
·
Dogs need to be trained using positive
reinforcement methods, and handlers must understand that they need to
demonstrate predictable behaviour to the dog so that the dog realises that
behaving in a certain way has a desirable outcome in the form of a reward.
Sunday, 8 July 2012
Extinguishing Behaviour
Today tried to teach Little Girl to 'Hold' when bringing back retrieve - but managed to start to extinguish her 'Retrieve' in one action. Here's how - so you don't make the same mistake...
Threw toy, asked her to retrieve, she did, but holding it for a few seconds when I said 'Hold' instead of dropping it near my feet as usual, so rewarded her with a treat.
Threw toy, asked her to retrieve, she did, but despite me saying 'Hold' dropped it near my feet as usual, so I turned my head away and ignored her to illustrate my disapproval.
Not having made myself clear about what I wasn't happy about, she thought I disliked the retrieve, so when I next asked her to 'Retrieve' she stood looking at me blankly - something she never does. I realised immediately MY mistake and we started a play-game of 'Retrieve' so she is back doing that OK and we will work on 'Hold' later!
Threw toy, asked her to retrieve, she did, but holding it for a few seconds when I said 'Hold' instead of dropping it near my feet as usual, so rewarded her with a treat.
Threw toy, asked her to retrieve, she did, but despite me saying 'Hold' dropped it near my feet as usual, so I turned my head away and ignored her to illustrate my disapproval.
Not having made myself clear about what I wasn't happy about, she thought I disliked the retrieve, so when I next asked her to 'Retrieve' she stood looking at me blankly - something she never does. I realised immediately MY mistake and we started a play-game of 'Retrieve' so she is back doing that OK and we will work on 'Hold' later!
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